We spend our last nights at Amyth, a chilled-out crash pad in its second summer season above the bay at Agios Stefanos. It’s another child-free place, with 17 boutique, one-bedroom suites that have either garden terraces or private pools. Bohemian and intimate, it’s probably as rustic as Mykonos gets in style, with natural, neutral fabrics and a mix of hammocks, swing seats, rope-crocheted parasols and surprisingly comfortable beanbag beds by the main pool. Staff are warm, friendly and ever ready to bring bespoke cocktails to your lounger — although it’s the resident rescue cat, Ziselle, who is really in charge.
The hotel’s Kouzina restaurant serves delicious, casual all-day dishes — such as seafood souvlakis, open gyros and watermelon and feta salads — by the pool. And the breakfasts are big, ranging from pies, pastries and charcuterie boards to à la carte egg options. There’s a small outdoor gym for anyone who wants to work off a few calories afterwards (still not tempted).
On our last night we take a slightly precarious five-minute walk down the hill to Limnios, a traditional family taverna in the largely residential area between Amyth and the sea. There are yet more sunset tables out front, but this time we choose the garden, where we have freshly grilled lamb in lemon and stuffed courgette flowers under a huge tree festooned with olives (mains from £19; limniostavern.com).
Tables of high-spirited locals take it in turns to pay court to the silver-haired, cigar-smoking proprietor sitting behind us. It seems finding elements of the down-to-earth island that captivated early admirers is still possible.
Click here to read the article in THE TIMES.